ONE restraunt and lounge

Adjacent to the busy intersection of St. Charles Ave. and Carrollton Ave. restaurant row is heavily traveled and diverse in its offerings. ONE brings a certain style to the neighborhood, with its monochromatic look, sleek vodka bar and a menu that can hold its own with some of the city's heavyweight eateries. In New Orleans it's not really about how cool the place looks –- it's more about how the chef treats your taste buds. The menu at ONE is a full-flavored affair; starting with appetizers, like the perfectly-textured sauteed herb gnocchi with crabmeat, asparagus and cherry tomatoes in Parmesan broth. Close your eyes and picture that, but don't open them until you've given some serious consideration to the spicy lobster bisque with lobster dumplings – Yes, lobster dumplings. The entree selection is limited, but covers several bases, from the pan-roasted grouper with smoked salmon and basil pesto, to the simmering coq au vin with bread pudding stuffed with carrots and green beans. The grilled beef tenderloin with Stilton cheese is elegantly served with dauphinoise potatoes and crisp asparagus. ONE has the goods to go the distance in this neighborhood –- the room is way cool and the food is entirely memorable.